FASHION WEEK REWIND 2022
IN FOCUS: Spring/Fall 2022
Cynthia Dyson
Creative Fashion Director
Up, up, up, and away for our travels to fashionable destinations to bring bold collections to the masses. Along the way, we spotted some famous faces, delicious eats, and fabulous scenery.
So, come along on this written journey with DHMICON as we share our favorites and our not-so-favorites of Fashion Week Spring/Fall 2022.
From Paris Fashion Week, we spotlight new collections for spring and fall from celebrated designers Stella McCartney and Stephane Rolland. Moving on to New York Fashion Week (singing it loud like Alicia Keys) with gorgeous collections from Carolina Herrera and Altuzarra.
Ok, now what would fashion week be if we didn’t see fashion fabulous celebrities like fashion IT couple glowing mom-to-be Rhianna and her proud papa-to-be A$AP Rocky to the always trendy Zendaya. This year’s fashion week dazzled us with lots of neutral colors and bored us with the over-use of bold hues that I am sure we have seen on runways in years past.
Images courtesy: Getty Images
Image courtesy of Unsplash | Photographer: Valentin B. Kremer
Critique of the collections
The trends this year were balloon designs, hoodies, and subdued tones. We were impressed by the American designer and creative director for Carolina Herrera: Wes Gordon. His use of vibrant colorful tulle and fabric against a dark backdrop brought richness to the overall collection, while skillfully pairing those looks with minimal accessories. Little miss Stella McCartney brought her “A” game with her collection. Features of this collection that we loved were the oversized trench coats that incorporated fine lines in the fabric that added a touch of style paired with balloon designs for both trousers and blouses and sliding in jumpsuits that brought out the 70’s tomboy style with a more updated look. The color schemes were a rich purple, browns on beige, delightful teals, honey mustard, and mixed greys that transformed with black fabric. Yes, we were feeling each look from this collection. Oui, oui, oui (translation: Yes for our English-speaking readers) designer Stephane Rolland gave us Nights in Gold, Grey, and White Satin. We felt more and more glamours with each monochramitc look. This Grecian-inspired ensemble was all about graceful fluidity unified by over-the-top accessories that highlighted each look. Select looks featured half vail hoods that made each look dramatically stylish, a solid satin married with transparent fabric that teased visually, palazzo trousers accented with eye-opening belts. Sexy open back floor-length caplet coats, gowns, and bodysuits made us long to be transported to beautiful Italy. It’s all good in the fashion hood with Altuzarra, and we are ready to wear these versatile looks. Let’s start with the intricate shibori dyeing effect on some of the separates and knits that took us on a technicolor trip back to Woodstock, crocheted paneling overlayed on Plissé jackets, pleated style maxi skirts, and blouses that were adorned with cowshells accessories that rounded out each look.
Our misses
Ok, so I do have my misses from our featured designer, unfortunately. These looks had me scratching my head and asking the question of what happened with these looks? Where do I begin? Let's see how about I start with the overuse of tulle on the Carolina Hererra midi dress. The model looks like she was about to take flight, once I moved past the overwhelming tulle that distracts away from the design, I shifted my attention to the plainness of the dress itself, it was as if Wes Gordon (Creative Director) just had extra tulle lying around and decided to use what was left and there just wasn’t any creativity in this disastrous creation. Oh, oh, Stella McCartney, she had me completely lost on this twisty droopy dress. This dress is not flattering to the silhouette, the material could have been put to better use as a complete wrap-around for the waistline that dropped into a waist-length train, but definitely not on the hips, the asymmetric neckline looked like it was choking the model, and then the knee-length boots had me floored. Reessayer, (English translation: Try again) I mean come on really, Stephane Rollan, this backward, open back of a mess dress definitely had me rolling my eyes. This sheer fabric maxi gown paired with too much up top satin taffeta had me wishing he would have just turned the top around to the front and made it into a plunging blouse. Then he went completely ridiculous with the oversized broach belt. The gown was elegant enough without that misplaced touch. My final no, no is the Altuzarra gown. Where do I even begin on this gown? The gown was optically brutal, it was more of a journey to find the lost gold, oh wait, I think I found it and it’s on this gown. The oversized layered sequins overwhelmed what could have been an otherwise fabulous gown. Strip off the high neck sequins, make it completely off the shoulder and subtract some of the oversized sequins toward the bottom to keep it elegant looking. Working in the fashion industry for over 25 years, I have come to know that even these fabulous designers don’t always get it right. Overall, I did enjoy these collections, and I look forward to new collections from them and others.
COVER IMAGE COURTESY UNSPLASH | PHOTOGRAPHER: SHAHIN KHALAJI
All Runway images courtesy: Getty Images and Shutterstock
Designers featured and their affiliates are not an endorsement of DHMICON.COM, its blogs, and or styling.
Image courtesy of Unsplash | Photographer: Valentin B. Kremer
LET’S GET THIS SHOW ON THE ROAD!
Having worked runway shows in my past fashion life, I know first-hand how nerve racking it can be to get models ready, and make sure that their look is flawless and exactly what the designers want. The daunting task to get each model to sit still for hair and make-up, while wardrobe is pulling them out of the chair, or when the director is yelling five minutes to curtain and you barely just starting putting on the foundation. So, we give a FIERCE SALUTE to all of the men and women who work tirelessly behind the scenes to get the models catwalk ready. Mad props and snaps!
in the SPOTLIGHT:
FAVorites
These spring and fall fashion looks offer elegant shine in classic natural whimsy. Our #favs are Stella McCartney, Carolina Herrera, Stephane Rolland, and Altuzarra. These designers took color and style to a whole other level, using fabrics that go from demure to dynamic, and stitching with care to balance each design, so that each look remains cohesive to the collection. This year’s fashion “STEAL-HER-STYLE AWARD” goes to… (envelope please) Stephane Rolland. The versatility of his ready-to-wear collection is both elegant and sophisticated, with a graceful boldness that gives way to soft satin fabric unified by over-the-top jeweled pieces that steer this collection into ultra-fabulousness. Love these fashions, need we say more!
Stella McCartney (top row), Carolina Herrera (center row), Stephane Rolland (third row down), and Alturzarra (bottom row)
Our Bonus #Favs
If I could throw roses onto the runway I would, so I will settle for a BRAVO, bravo. These designs are my bonus favorites from each collection, so I had to give them a shoutout too. Stella McCartney had me captivated with this balloon pant jumpsuit, with its lovely pleating starting with the high neck down to the capri pants and colorful artwork all over. I love it! Hunties, this Carolina Hererra midi jeweled pea coat has got me wanting to wear this before the weather falls cold. I am absolutely taken by the intricate jeweled collar that extends down the center and just above the hem, the gathered waistline compliments the silhouette. I am ready to pack my bags and fly back to Venice, Italy with the Stephane Rolland floor-length gown. A fabric necktie threaded through a keyhole design cradles the delicate satin fabric joined by a sheer head vail. This gown whispers eleganza, and I am listening. My final favorite look comes from Altuzarra, I am here for shibori tie-dye on this lovely pant set. The semi-shoulder cape with a peekaboo v-neck and waist gives just the right balance of street and casual style while playing up the look with a handle bag, thin puka shell belt, and peep toe high heel booties. I am ready for a ladies’ lunch, a wintery evening out on the town, a glamorous visit to the Italian coast, or a day of retail therapy alone with each of these looks.
Growing up with a seamstress mother and a tailor father, Cynthia Dyson has made a name for herself in the fashion industry for over 25 years, first working as a pattern maker, and moving on to styling for photoshoots and fashion shows. She enjoys time with her golden retriever Lovely, traveling, and taking in a good movie at home in Southern California.
